Separation Related Problems (SRP)
Separation Anxiety is often used to describe a dog in distress when left alone. In reality, it’s a specific diagnosis that doesn’t apply to most dogs labeled this way. Every dog is different, and SRPs can manifest in various ways, such as fear of being alone or away from others.
Symptoms when left alone:
Chewed objects
Soiled carpets/crates
Puddles of saliva or fur (anxious drooling)
Scratched walls/door frames or doors
Neighbors reporting barking and howling
Anorexia – dog not eating
How to treat SRPs:
Building new associations: Create positive experiences associated with your absence.
Building confidence: Help your dog feel secure when alone.
Start by exposing your dog in a way that doesn’t induce a fearful response and gradually increase exposure. The increase should be so gradual that the dog always feels safe.
Tips:
Never give the dog more than they can comfortably handle.
Never put the dog in a position where they feel afraid.
This process takes time, consistency, and repetition.
Self-control from the human side is crucial; avoid pushing too much too fast.
Slow down the process to ensure success.
Are the dog’s basic needs being met?
Health: Is the dog okay?
Eating: Is the dog eating quality food?
Exercise: Minimum of 30 minutes per day of movement, walks, play, and sniffing.
Mental stimulation: Problem-solving at least once a day.
Medication: Consult with your vet or a veterinary behaviorist. Medication can complement behavior modification. Not all dogs need medication.
Where will your dog hang out during this process?
Consider where your dog feels most comfortable and relaxed—crate, room, or large open space. Should you use a crate? Does your dog like to be confined? Can you use a baby gate or barrier? Consider using a new space where your dog doesn’t usually hang out.
Building a positive association with a new spot:
Feed meals there.
Hang out quietly there—give a food toy while you check Facebook or read
To create a new space as a familiar one, spend a lot of time there building a positive association.
Departure Cues:
Events that signal your dog that you’re about to leave (brushing teeth, packing your lunch, etc.)
It’s good to know these cues, but they’re not crucial to your success. It’s great practice to learn to “read” your dog. These cues can help you gauge where your dog is in the desensitization process.
Normal sounds and activity when you are home:
Would the TV be on if you’re home? Would there be music? Would it be quiet? Would there be a fan? White noise or brown noise?
Letting the dog look outside:
Dogs prone to anxiety might feel the need to patrol or be on guard, which can increase stress. These dogs need their view blocked (frosted windows blur the outside view but let the light in).
Technology:
Use technology to stream and have a good connection to see what your dog is doing.
Watch and know they’re doing okay.
Then start increasing the amount of time they’re left alone.
Your plan could look like this:
Get your dog used to you moving away by doing extremely easy exercises while your dog relaxes.
Introduce a barrier—not to confine your dog but to prevent them from accessing certain areas.
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